"In China, dietary practice involves two extremes: 'eating to live' and 'eating for pleasure," as Alan Davidson points out in The Oxford Companion to Food. This duality of primary foods (zhushi) and accompaniments (fushi) is the foundation of all regional cuisines throughout the country; variations thrive, but the underlying principle is always preserved.

  ".. any attempt to divide [China's] landscape into clear and precise areas with respect to local cuisine would surely fail."  

Understanding these regional variations can lead to a deeper cultural appreciation and-on a more practical level - a more enjoyable dining experience in restaurants, allowing diners to select items off of the menu that highlight the particular talents of the kitchen. more


Raga restaurant
433 East 6th Street (between 1st and A)
Open 6:00 pm Tuesday-Sunday.
Reservations recommended:
(212) 388-0957.

Chef News: Raga reintroduces chef de cuisine, Lee Farrington. After stints at Balthazar, Tabla and Aldela, Lee returns with a succession of wild and inventive game dishes up her crisp white sleeves.
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